At goGLOW, we are in the business of helping you age gracefully.
We are able to do this by providing you with healthier alternatives to sun exposure by keeping your skin tan and glowing the sunless way. This hopefully will encourage you to spend less time in the sun, keeping your skin youthful and glow-y in the best way possible!
Aging skin is unavoidable and is a part of our life journey. We are not ‘anti-aging’, because there is a beauty in all of us no matter what we look like or what age we are. However, as we age, wrinkles and sun spots start to appear seemingly out of nowhere. Then, texture and elasticity of skin diminishes. One of the absolute best ways to combat these effects of aging, besides staying out of the sun and using SPF daily (duh!) is to use ‘retinol’ or ‘retinoids’. Using retinol may not be for everyone, but we have noticed a vast majority of our clients share the same passion that we do in regards to keeping our skin healthy and youthful looking as we take our turns around the sun. We wish to share our knowledge and passion with you!
First, before you start your retinol regime, we suggest seeing your dermatologist or medical aesthetic provider for the best recommendation for a retinoid for your specific skin type. Some skin types are overly dry or too sensitive to handle certain retinoids, and thus the regimen must be ‘eased into’.
What do retinoids do?
Retinoids minimize the appearance of wrinkles, bolster skin’s thickness and elasticity, slow the breakdown of collagen (which helps keep skin firm), and lighten brown spots caused by sun exposure.
Retinoids work by prompting surface skin cells to turn over and die rapidly, making way for new cell growth underneath. They hamper the breakdown of collagen and thicken the deeper layer of skin where wrinkles get their start. For brown spots that give the skin an uneven tone, retinoids slough them off and curb the production of melanin, a darker pigment.
For aging skin, dermatologists like to prescribe tretinoin and retinoic acid (Retin-A, Renova, Refissa) that is “100 times” as potent as the retinol-containing products sold without prescription. Tretinoin works better than OTC products because it has a stronger capability of preventing the breakdown of collagen. It is often prescribed to patients after they have tried OTC varieties and are looking for something stronger. Retinol, found in over-the-counter products, changes to retinoic acid when you put it on your skin.
Side effects? Retinoids typically cause peeling and redness in the first few weeks of use. Even though your skin may peel, push through it! Irritation that flares up after adding retinols to your regimen is all a normal part of the process. After two to three weeks, the skin cells adapt to the retinoic acid and begin to tolerate the ingredient. This, again may mean a flushed, drier-than usual, lightly peeling face. It may take up to 12 weeks to see a positive change in the skin – so be patient! This change may not be noticeable to you with an untrained eye, but the benefits on the cellular level are astonishing.
The best advice, that we have received from our many trips to our aesthetic dermatologist providers, is to be consistent with your retinol applications. Like anything else (a food diet, a new relationship) we all must be patient and put the work to reap the plentiful benefits!
What does this mean for your goGLOW?
This means, especially during the colder transitional season we are in right now (November/December) the skin is susceptible to peeling and flaking. When combined with a spray tan service or a spray tan aerosol product your tan may appear blotchy.
If you are taking our advice and starting to incorporate a retinol into your skincare routine, keep in mind that you should stop using this product 5+ days before you come see us, or before you plan to use a self tanning product on your face (or neck, or wherever else you may be using retinol).
The dihydroxyacetone (DHA, active tanning ingredient) will not trigger more peeling, but the combination of 1. having no moisturizer on your skin before a spray tan/goGLOW and 2. the small amount of alcohol/witch hazel in our formulation to atomize the spray tan solution will cause a dark, peely and patchy looking tan.
At goGLOW, we are in the business of helping you age gracefully.
We are able to do this by providing you with healthier alternatives to sun exposure by keeping your skin tan and glowing the sunless way. This hopefully will encourage you to spend less time in the sun, keeping your skin youthful and glow-y in the best way possible. Avoiding UV rays, tanning beds, and prolonged UV exposure altogether is one of the most meaningful steps you can take toward long-term skin health — and a spray tan is always a smarter, safer choice than UV light.
Why Retinol Matters for Aging Skin
Aging skin is unavoidable and is a part of our life journey. We are not anti-aging, because there is a beauty in all of us no matter what we look like or what age we are. However, as we age, wrinkles and sun spots start to appear seemingly out of nowhere. Then, texture and elasticity of skin diminishes. One of the absolute best ways to combat these effects of aging, besides staying out of the sun and using SPF daily is to use retinol or retinoids. Sun damage caused by years of UV exposure accelerates the breakdown of collagen production, contributes to dark spots and uneven skin tone, and increases the risk of skin cancer — which is why sun protection and a thoughtful skincare routine matter so much as we age. Using retinol may not be for everyone, but we have noticed a vast majority of our clients share the same passion that we do in regards to keeping our skin healthy and youthful looking as we take our turns around the sun. We wish to share our knowledge and passion with you.
Before You Start Using Retinol
First, before you start your retinol regime, we suggest seeing your dermatologist or medical aesthetic provider for the best recommendation for a retinoid for your specific skin type. Some skin types are overly dry or too sensitive to handle certain retinoids at high concentrations, and thus the regimen must be eased into carefully. Starting at lower concentrations and building up gradually is the standard approach dermatologists recommend for sensitive skin types who want to incorporate retinol safely without triggering excessive irritation.
What Retinoids Actually Do
What do retinoids do? Retinoids minimize the appearance of wrinkles, bolster skin’s thickness and elasticity, slow the breakdown of collagen which helps keep skin firm, and lighten brown spots caused by sun exposure. By supporting new skin cells and accelerating skin cell turnover, retinol products help reveal a fresher, smoother skin surface over time.
Retinoids work by prompting surface skin cells to turn over and die rapidly, making way for new cell growth underneath. This process of cell turnover is what makes retinol so effective — the dead skin cells slough away faster, new cells emerge, and the overall texture and tone of the skin surface begins to improve. Retinol speeds up this natural renewal process in a way that most other over-the-counter active ingredients cannot match. They hamper the breakdown of collagen and thicken the deeper layer of skin where wrinkles get their start. For brown spots and dark spots that give the skin an uneven tone, retinoids slough them off and curb the production of melanin, a darker pigment.
Prescription Retinoids vs. Over-the-Counter Retinol
For aging skin, dermatologists like to prescribe tretinoin and retinoic acid such as Retin-A, Renova, and Refissa, which is 100 times as potent as the retinol-containing products sold without prescription. Tretinoin works better than over-the-counter products because it has a stronger capability of preventing the breakdown of collagen and supporting collagen production more aggressively. It is often prescribed to patients after they have tried over-the-counter varieties and are looking for something stronger. Retinol, found in over-the-counter products, changes to retinoic acid when you put it on your skin.
What to Expect: Side Effects and the Adjustment Period
Side effects? Retinoids typically cause peeling and redness in the first few weeks of use. Even though your skin may peel, push through it. Mild irritation that flares up after adding retinols to your regimen is all a normal part of the process. The skin barrier is working to adjust, and supporting it during this time with gentle cleansers, deeply hydrating moisturizers, hydrating serums containing hyaluronic acid, and avoiding harsh active ingredients like glycolic acid or lactic acid in the same routine can make the transition significantly more comfortable. After two to three weeks, the skin cells adapt to the retinoic acid and begin to tolerate the ingredient. This again may mean a flushed, drier-than-usual, lightly peeling face. It may take up to 12 weeks to see a positive change in the skin — so be patient. This change may not be noticeable to you with an untrained eye, but the benefits on the cellular level are astonishing.
It is also worth noting that when you apply retinol, your skin becomes more sensitive to sunlight and UV rays. During the summer months especially, reapply sunscreen frequently, seek shade during peak hours, and wear protective clothing including long sleeves when spending extended time outdoors. Sun protection is not optional when retinol is part of your evening routine — SPF every morning, without exception, is non-negotiable. Reapply sunscreen at least every two hours when outdoors and never skip it simply because it is cloudy. Skipping sun protection while using retinol is completely counter intuitive to everything you are trying to achieve for your skin.
The best advice, that we have received from our many trips to our aesthetic dermatologist providers, is to be consistent with your retinol applications. Like anything else — a food diet, a new relationship — we all must be patient and put in the work to reap the plentiful benefits.
Combining Retinol and Tanning: What Happens to Your Spray Tan
What does this mean for your goGLOW? Mixing retinol and tanning — specifically combining retinol with a spray tan service — requires careful timing, and this is where many clients run into trouble. This means especially during the colder transitional season we are in right now, the skin is susceptible to peeling and flaking. When combined with a spray tan service or a spray tan aerosol product your tan may appear blotchy. If you are wondering whether retinol can ruin a fake tan, the short answer is yes — and here is why. If you are taking our advice and starting to incorporate a retinol into your skincare routine, keep in mind that you should stop using this product 5 or more days before you come see us, or before you plan to use a self tanning product on your face, neck, or wherever else you may be using retinol.
The dihydroxyacetone, known as DHA and the active tanning ingredient in every spray tan solution, will not trigger more peeling on its own, but the combination of having no moisturizer on your skin before a spray tan and the small amount of alcohol and witch hazel in our formulation used to atomize the spray tan solution will cause a dark, peely, and patchy looking tan. The accelerated skin cell turnover caused by retinol use means the new skin cells underneath have not yet had time to stabilize, and DHA reacts unpredictably with skin that is mid-cycle in this renewal process — resulting in a fake tan that fades unevenly, clings to dry patches, and looks nothing like the natural, even glow you came in for.
Additional Considerations for Retinol Users
There are a few additional considerations worth keeping in mind if retinol is a regular part of your skincare routine. Vitamin C serums used in your morning routine can complement retinol used in your evening routine, but should be applied separately to avoid irritation. Avoid using retinol on your whole body without guidance, as the skin on the body can react differently than the face and may require a different approach. If your skin is particularly sensitive or your skin barrier is compromised, allow extra recovery time before booking a spray tan — a full week is safer than five days in some cases. Environmental stressors like cold weather, wind, and indoor heating all reduce skin’s natural moisture levels and amplify the peeling effects of retinol, making winter the season that requires the most careful planning for anyone combining retinol and tanning.
How to Get a Perfect Tan While Using Retinol
Getting a flawless spray tan while retinol is part of your skincare routine is absolutely achievable — it simply requires a little planning and the right approach to keeping your skin calm, hydrated, and ready to absorb the tan evenly.
- Stop using retinoids at least 5 days before your goGLOW appointment. This gives your skin cell turnover cycle enough time to settle, your skin barrier a chance to recover, and ensures the spray tan solution can interact with a stable, balanced skin surface rather than one that is actively shedding dead skin cells at an accelerated rate.
- Keep your skin hydrated. Drink plenty of water, moisturize your facial skin two or more times a day, and consider layering hydrating serums containing hyaluronic acid underneath your moisturizer to support deeply hydrated skin from within. Dry skin and retinol do not mix well, and the more hydrated your skin is going into your appointment, the more evenly your tan will develop and fade.
- Avoid mineral oil in your moisturizers and do not overdo it on the glycolic acid or alpha hydroxy acid exfoliators, including lactic acid products, which can further compromise a sensitized skin barrier and make uneven tanning results far more likely when combining retinol and tanning.
- If you have our HYDRATE lotion — and if you do not, what are you doing with your life — we suggest applying HYDRATE after your retinoid applications to help skin calm down, reduce redness, and minimize the peeling effects that sensitive skin types commonly experience in the early weeks of retinol use. We also suggest applying HYDRATE to your face before your goGLOW tan applications. We promise it will not block the tan from achieving full coverage. It will only help your skin absorb the tan more evenly because your skin will be hydrated, which means new skin cells have the moisture they need to interact with the DHA in our spray tan solution properly and produce that natural looking glow rather than a patchy or uneven result.
- Use cooler water to wash your face. Hot water can dehydrate your skin, strip the skin barrier, and accelerate the shedding of skin cells in a way that works directly against both your retinol results and the longevity of your spray tan.
Bottom line, winter and mask season is the best time to try something new that may cause redness or irritation as most of your face is covered. UV rays are less intense, you are naturally more inclined to seek shade and wear protective clothing, and the temptation to skip SPF or reapply sunscreen is lower when you are spending less time outdoors. The outcome after all is said and done is well worth the journey — and when retinol becomes a consistent part of your evening routine, the improvements to your skin tone, collagen production, dark spots, and overall skin texture will make your goGLOW results look even more radiant every single time.
Photo credit; Christina Erickson.
Bride; Marcy Adams Helgren.
MUA; Lady Vamp Artistry.
Robe; Le Rose Robes & Sleepwear.
Spray tan; goGLOW.
References
Edgar, Julie. “Retinols for Anti-Aging Skin.” WebMD, 12 November 2012, https://www.webmd.com/beauty/features/retinoids-f…
Trench, Brooke. 11 Retinol Myths. Allure, 2020. Allure, https://www.allure.com/gallery/biggest-retinol-cr…
